On South America’s Pacific coast, stretching from the
tropics nearly to the Antarctic, Chile is a string bean
country rarely wider than 110 miles. For nearly all its
length, the imposing Andes isolate it from neighbouring
countries. Its 2670 mile coastline features a great variety
of environments, from the arid Atacama Desert, to a
Mediterranean Central Valley, a mountainous lake district
and, Patagonia’s spectacular alpine glaciers and fjords.
From the popular Pacific beaches, the massive Andean Crest
is almost always in sight and surfing and skiing on the
same day is not beyond possibility.
Descending into Punta Arenas, my first sighting of Chile
was the magnificent Straights of Magellan and surrounding
hinterland. Dashed by a frigid ocean containing small ice
flows, the land certainly shared a look of the Falklands
Islands where I had just left. The LAN CHILE Captain, full
of Spanish and English commentary, eased the 737 onto the
long runway. The airport looked tired and well used. A
company A320 Airbus sat at the holding point, Mirage
fighters in open shelters awaiting exercise, Antarctic
multi-coloured Ski planes, a giant Russian transport and a
lone reconnaissance plane, but to mention a few, were
scattered around many dispersals. The delights of Punta
Arenas would have to wait a week, my first stopover was in
the Volcano and Lakes National park of Vicente Perez
Rosales, some 1½ hours flying time north. Quickly clearing
customs and re-boarding the same aircraft, the geography of
my journey rapidly changed as I got my first sighting of
the mighty Andes. Gazing down from the perfect observation
platform supplied by Mr Boeing, the many peaks and ranges
thrust majestically skywards. Very soon, the weakening sun
veiled the complete vista with a pink hue. Undoubtedly a
geographical wonder, my thoughts immediately turned to the
soaring Condor and the music of the Pan Pipes. The Andes
would be an interesting and dominating feature of my stay
in Chile. All too quickly the light faded and a rapid
descent and smooth touchdown, brought me to the regional
airport of Puerto Montt.
I had arrived in the jewel of Chile’s southern mainland
lakes area and the number one National Park. My evening
transfer from Puerto Montt to the lakeside town of Puerto
Varas, had hidden the dramatic scenery that was about to
unfold. Puerto Varas, colourful and clean, is the gateway
to the National Park and many popular boat excursions deep
into the Andes and close to the Argentine border. The next
day, framed from my hotel window, brought unobscured views
of the 2660 metre Volcan Osorno, standing proud in
brilliant sunlight, almost Kilimanjaro like with snow
draped around the cone. Close by the needlepoint of Volcan
Puntiagudo lurked to the north, while prominent to the
east, Monte Tronador marks the Argentine border. This was a
land of stupendous contour, a must for any traveller and a
photographer’s paradise. Taking a local bus to the
captivating town of Fruitillar, I was able to observe more
impressive views of the volcano range. On the shores of
Lago Llanquihue, the meticulously preserved Germanic
architecture provided a fitting foreground to the dramatic
backdrop of the Andes. Without doubt, the centrepiece to
the park is the deep and twisting lake, Lago Todos Los
Santos. A scoured glacial basin between densely forested
ridges, the lake offers dramatic views of the volcanoes to
the north and the Andes to the east. I took an enjoyable
day boat trip on the lake from the town of Petrohue to the
village of Peulla, a mere 20 km from the Argentine town of
Bariloche. The morning was well set, a combination of rich
colours from the bright sky and the deep blue lake,
generated a dramatic setting for the steep green gorges,
snow capped volcanoes and, always in sight the main
Cordillera of the Andes. Approaching Peulla, in contrast,
the deep blue waters became emerald green. The tiny
village, with efficient Alpine like hotel providing an
excellent lunch, bustles in the summer as tourists pass
through a small customs post and across the border. A short
steep climb behind the hotel, revealed the pounding and
spray generated from the impressive Cascada de Los Novios.
A waterfall, set in a micro-climate of tropical ferns and
bright orchids, provided a most desirable post-lunch
resting place! On the return lake journey, remarkably the
boat met several small tenders mid-water. Their cargo
transferred to our larger vessel were school children,
immaculately dressed and full of smiles and flowing
dialect, loaded with leather satchels and cases, perhaps
making a journey home or to boarding school. Very soon, a
build up of weather gave the area an angry image, low cloud
smashed into hillsides and cloaked the unrestricted vistas
of the morning. Different light and different feelings, a
dramatic finale to my introduction to the great outdoors of
South America.
Low cloud and drizzle hung over the rolling agriculture,
between hotel and airport the next day. Conditions changed
very quickly as the A320 Airbus punched through the gloom
and almost immediately the Andes were sitting resplendent
against a clear sky. A 1-½ hour flight north brought me to
the capital Santiago and, a vast change in the climate and
geography. The airport and downtown temperatures sit at
30-35’C in the South American summer and quite some
contrast to the temperate southern regions. The immense
infrastructure of LAN CHILE, was very evident at Aeropuerto
Comodoro Arturo Merino Bernitez. Busy jet ways and
terminals, wide body to regional company types and the
occasional European and U.S. flag-carrier sat in the noon
sun. Processing was very efficient and in quick time I was
traversing the busy city traffic en-route hotel. My initial
impressions of Santiago were one of pleasant surprise. Once
clear of the sleepy and industrial outskirts, a clean and
green city lay ahead and this was certainly not a Lima or
La Paz. The skyline is imposing and its glitzy exterior
reflects a decade of vigorous economic growth, which has
resulted in South America’s most dynamic economy. A city of
contrasts, Chile’s sprawling capital is really many cities
in one. Santiago proper, the former colonial core, is
surrounded by another 31 comunas of greater and lesser
importance, that have grown to form the present conurbation
of 5 million population. I had chosen to stay in
Providencia, a vibrant business and social district,
rubbing shoulders with the nearby millionaire’s suburb of
Las Condes and, a mere 10 minutes on the clinically clean
and efficient metro to Santiago Centro. My hotel was in a
quiet tree lined street, bordered by the Rio Mapocho and
the Avenue Providencia, which contained many fine
restaurants and other varied evening distractions off the
myriad of side walks. A comprehensive city tour identified
many museums, palaces and parks that would need a couple of
weeks to achieve familiarity. Without doubt, the highlight
of my brief acquaintance with Santiago, was a late
afternoon visit to the Parco Metropolitano. Within the park
and towering above downtown Santiago, the 869 metre hill of
San Cristobal is crowned by a 36 metre white statue of the
Virgin Mary. With arms outstretched, the statue dominates
the park and, with almost Rio de Janeiro comparisons, is
one of the cities most popular attractions. I picked a
clear day with no haze or smog and, extraordinary views of
the city, surroundings and the nearby mountain range were
stretched out before me. An incredible sight and a most
appropriate overview of the area for such a short visit.
Northwest of Santiago, Valparaiso and its scenic coastline
play a dual role in Chile. Valparaiso is a vital port and
one of South America’s most distinctive urban areas, while
Vina del Mar, a resort of international stature and, other
coastal towns to the north are favourite summer
playgrounds. A modern dual carriageway, passing through
several long tunnels, took me coast bound towards
Valparaiso. En-route and, in an attempt to capture more of
real Chile, a visit to a winery was a must. Having recently
trodden the Stellenbosch and Hawke’s Bay, a slurp of
Chilean Merlot was an essential personal requirement! An
hour out of Santiago and nestled in the Valle de
Casablanca, amongst acre after acre of finely manicured
vineyards, sat the Veramonte estate. Fine Chilean wines
grace the shelves of most well stocked U.K. supermarkets,
mainly from the Maipo Valley, however 80% of Veramonte
produce is for export, which includes Europe. Received by
friendly English speaking staff, a quick once over the
parish and a couple of glasses of Primus, acted as a great
mid-morning sharpener, before continuing the journey to the
coast. Valparaiso, or Valpo for short, more closely
resembles a medieval European harbour, than a 20th century
commercial port. Often called La Perla del Pacifico-Pearl
of the Pacific-Chile’s second largest city occupies a
narrow terrace, overlooked by precipitous cliffs and hills
covered by suburbs and shantytowns. They are linked to the
centre by meandering roads, footpaths and near vertical
funicular railways. A port theme dominates the city and
consequently, much activity is concentrated close to the
Plaza Sotomayor and the sea front, where Military Men,
Merchant Seamen and cruise line passengers can be seen
going about their business in varying rig and at varying
speeds. Arriving in Valparaiso, the lunchtime temperatures
had risen to +30’C and liquid refreshment near the
waterfront provided a welcome break. Closeby, the P & O
liner Royal Princess, awaited her next batch of punters for
their 2-week jaunt around the Cape. Ironically, the huge
vessel pays frequent visits to Port Stanley, where her
compliment of 1500 passengers, almost immediately doubles
the population of the Falklands capital. Somewhat of a
contrast from cosmopolitan Santiago and Valparaiso! A short
drive up the coast and almost attached to the sprawl of
Valpo, lies Chile’s premier beach resort of Vina del Mar.
Beautiful sand and carefully tended subtropical landscapes
of palms and flowers, contrasts dramatically with the
nearby port. A playground for the rich, Vino attracts many
Chileans from the business centres of Santiago who can
afford a second home. Consequently, block after block of
smart condos and apartments, surrounded by the intense
colours of immaculate gardens, overlook the inviting blue
Pacific. Nice if you can get it!! North of Vina, on a
winding elevated road, with dramatic views of the ocean,
lie several small towns. They are less frequented by the
tourist, but far more attractive. My guide selected her
favourite beach restaurant in the pretty town of Renaca,
for what was a marvellous seafood lunch. I chose conger eel
and trimmings and watched a squadron of pelicans gave an
excellent fishing display. Amidst the crashing surf, almost
with precision, the cumbersome looking birds dived
vertically for their catch, before breaking the surface and
re-joining their organised circuit for another approach.
Meanwhile, on a nearby rocky outcrop, where lunchtime
tanning was cooled by the Pacific breeze, a family of
Sealions looked on and admired the scene. From port to
resort, a diverse, but most beautiful coastline and fast
becoming a fashionable retreat from the city. We took the
scenic route back to Santiago and climbing the steep sides
of the Valle de Casablanca instantly gave us impressive
views of the vineyards and the coastal towns beyond. Very
quickly we were weaving through the Santiago busy traffic,
returning to Providencia and my hotel. A jug of Pisco Sour
next to the pool, as the humming birds busied themselves
about the bougainvillaea, was a fitting end to the day.
It was with sadness that I had to leave vibrant Santiago
and the delightful Pacific coastline, after what was a
short but exiting visit. Today I was southbound on the
final leg of my journey, a 3½ hour direct flight to Punta
Arenas. Yes, 3½ hours, that’s quite some internal flight
and it really emphasises the length of the country. A
similar flight length from London or Manchester, to
anywhere in Europe, would get you most places! Or perhaps
the equivalent of London to Paris return, 3 times!! Today,
as if by pre-arrangement, there was no cloud or haze in
Chile!! Shortly after breakfast was served, the A320
reached cruising altitude of around 37 000ft and for 3
hours we were provided with the geographical spectacle of
uninterrupted views of the Andes. I am sure some would have
paid for the trip just to see this! Mile after mile of snow
filled mountain ranges, jagged peaks, volcanoes, glaciers,
lakes and rivers. A dramatic spine. Clear, pristine,
uncontaminated and in perfect contrast against the deep
azure sky. I felt I was viewing this spectacle from space
and this is undoubtedly one of the most impressive sights
on the planet. I was brought down to earth by the flatter
areas of Patagonia and by LAN CHILE of course, as we made
our descent into Punta Arenas. It was 15’C cooler down here
and much more Falklands like. The 20 minute drive downtown
passed through rough pasture and gorse fields, light
industry and port areas, before entering the central
infrastructure, of what looked a normal, busy market town.
The locals were dressed for the temperate climes; jeans,
heavy patterned sweaters and woollen hats covering wind
blasted, but happy smiling faces. What a comparison to
Santiago and the Pacific coast I had left in the morning.
This was Patagonia and the stopping off place for the
enthusiast into the Chilean great outdoors. Beautiful
National Parks and tremendous fishing attracts many
traveller in their sturdy off-road vehicle. Occupying a
narrow shelf at the foot of the Andes and on the western
side of the Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas is the
liveliest and most interesting city in Patagonia. As a
port, Punta Arenas attracts ships from the burgeoning South
Atlantic fish industry as well as Antarctic research and
frequent tourist vessels. The centre contains many mansions
and colonial style buildings. Some are official buildings
and museums, some are now abodes for the rich. The main
residential areas, with multi-coloured houses and roofs,
form the many streets and avenues that drift to the
periphery of the city limits. A little over 1km from the
centre and atop a steep hill, gave a dramatic view of the
city and the port area. A tall pole decorated with signs,
depicting direction and distance to various world
destinations, gave a feeling of remoteness. This was after
all said to be the world’s most southerly city! I stayed in
the imposing Hotel Jose Nogueira, a former gentlemen’s club
and still finely furnished with marble and chandeliers. The
rooms were a bit tired, but the conservatory, complete with
what must be the world’s most southerly grape arbour,
provided interesting views across the market square. I
dined on fresh King Crab and Patagonian lamb, washed down
of course with a juicy local Merlot. A fitting end to my
last night in Chile and a most interesting week.
So, that was the long and short of it. An interesting
snapshot of Chile. From National Park to the Capital. From
winery to Pacific Coast and finally to Patagonia.
Interestingly enough, there is as much of the country north
of Santiago, as there is south! Food for thought, another
expedition pending!!